dižzīles sēklas - Blog

Dahlia Growing Tips

Fri, 27 Feb 2026 07:14:00 +0000

Dahlias may look exotic, but in terms of care they are similar to other tuber or bulb flowers. Dahlia is a tuberous plant that blooms in summer, therefore tubers should be planted in spring, when frost is no longer expected at night.

Location and soil. The more sun dahlias receive, the more beautifully they will grow and bloom. Choose a sunny location. Dahlias require fertile, humus-rich soil with good drainage. For each tuber, dig a hole about 30 cm in diameter and add compost or other fertile soil. Excessively wet soil is unsuitable, as tubers may begin to rot.

Planting dahlias. From mid-May to late May, when frost is no longer expected, plant the tubers outdoors in the garden. Plant them shallowly, covering with only a thin layer of soil. Smaller divided tubers can be planted closer together, while larger clumps should be spaced further apart. Depending on the variety and tuber size, spacing between plants should be 20–70 cm.

Tubers can also be started in pots indoors in early spring (March/April). This allows them to sprout earlier, so after the last frost they can be transplanted outdoors as sprouted tubers or small plants. When transplanting from pots in mid- to late May, plant at the same depth as they were growing in the pot.

Dahlia care. In early growth stages, if unexpected frost occurs, protect young shoots with frost cover. Young shoots are also attractive to slugs, so protection may be necessary.

Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season, especially during flowering. Moist, but not overly wet. Taller varieties with large blooms may require support. The more flowers you cut, the more it encourages new buds and continued blooming.

Tip: When plants reach about 20 cm in height, you can pinch the growing tip. This encourages branching and results in more flowers.

Lifting dahlia tubers. Dahlias originate from Mexico, where tubers remain in the ground over winter because the soil does not freeze. In colder climates such as Latvia, the soil freezes, so tubers must be lifted in autumn and stored at above-freezing temperatures. Tubers are usually lifted from mid-October to late October. A good indicator is when the plant turns brown and dies back. The safest time is about one week after the first serious frost. It is better to lift later rather than too early, as immature tubers are more likely to rot during storage.

Tip: Ideally, choose a dry, sunny period without rain. Cut the stems and leave the tubers in the ground for at least 7 days before lifting. This helps stimulate the formation of new growth buds.

Lift tubers carefully to avoid damage. If damaged, remove the affected part, as it may rot during storage. Cut stems, leaving about 15 cm of neck attached. Remove excess soil and rinse with water, then shorten long roots slightly. After washing, damaged tubers can be identified and discarded.

Dividing dahlia tubers. Examine the tubers and identify the growth buds. Use a sharp knife and ensure each division has at least one bud. New stems will grow from these buds in spring. If buds are difficult to see in autumn, division can be done in spring when they are more visible.

Storing dahlia tubers. Allow tubers to dry for several days in a greenhouse, room, or other well-ventilated space. Avoid direct sunlight.

Store tubers in cardboard boxes, baskets, or paper bags. They can be covered with slightly moist sand. Store in a dark place with good air circulation at a temperature of 4–9°C.

During winter, check tubers periodically to ensure they remain healthy and do not rot.

Growing Microgreens

Fri, 19 Dec 2025 14:45:00 +0000

What are microgreens

Microgreens are young edible seedlings harvested shortly after germination, usually within 7–18 days, when the first true leaves have developed. They are aromatic, flavorful, and rich in biologically active nutrients. Microgreens are commonly used in salads, sandwiches, juices, and as an attractive garnish for various dishes.

Required equipment

To grow microgreens, you will need high-quality seeds, a growing tray with drainage holes, a bottom tray, soil, water, and sufficient light. Microgreens can be grown under natural sunlight or artificial lighting.

Sowing

Fill the growing tray with soil and gently press it down. Sow the seeds evenly across the surface, placing them densely but not excessively thick, so the seeds are close to each other. Do not cover the seeds with soil; instead, press them lightly into the surface using a spoon so they make good contact with the soil. Mist with water.

For the first few days, it is beneficial to place a weight directly on top of the seeds to press them firmly against the soil. Cover the tray with a cloth or towel to keep it dark. Lift the weight daily, mist the seeds, and place it back. After about 3–4 days, when the seeds begin to germinate, remove the towel and place the tray in light.

Watering and care

The soil must remain evenly moist but not waterlogged to avoid mold. Once the seeds have germinated, it is recommended to start bottom watering by pouring water into the lower tray. The growing tray will absorb moisture through the drainage holes. The room should be well ventilated, without major temperature fluctuations. The optimal growing temperature is 18–24 °C. If the seedlings become tall and pale, it is a sign of insufficient light.

Harvesting

Microgreens are ready to harvest when they reach about 5–7 cm in height and have developed 2–4 true leaves. Cut them with scissors just above the soil surface. To extend their freshness, the entire tray can be placed in the refrigerator once they have reached the harvesting stage. Cooling stops growth and helps keep them fresh.

Hippeastrum (Amaryllis) Growing Guide

Wed, 29 Oct 2025 12:02:00 +0000

What Does Bulb Size Mean?

The larger the bulb, the more flower stems and blooms it will produce.

Bulb circumference	Flower stems	Flowers per stem	Total blooms
26–28 cm	1	2–3	2–3
28–30 cm	1–2	3–4	3–8
30–32 cm	2	3–4	6–8
34+ cm	2–3	4–6	up to 12

At Dižzīles, we offer 32 cm bulbs — large and ready to impress.

Planting and Forcing

You can start awakening the bulb in October, November, December, January, February, or March.
From the start of growth until flowering takes about 6–8 weeks.

Many people plan their Hippeastrum to bloom for Christmas, New Year’s Eve, Valentine’s Day, March 8, or another special occasion — but whenever it blooms, it’s sure to bring joy. Try it yourself!

You can grow Hippeastrum in soil (in a pot) or without soil (in a vase).

In a pot:

Choose a heavy pot — as the plant grows tall, it can topple in a lightweight container.
The pot should be about twice as deep as the bulb and only 2–3 cm wider around it.
You can also plant several bulbs together in a wider pot.
A universal potting mix works well.
Do not bury the bulb completely — keep at least half above the surface.

In a vase:

You can also grow it decoratively on pebbles or glass beads, with a small amount of water just touching the roots, not the bulb base.
There are also special glass vases designed for forcing Hippeastrum bulbs.

Watering and Feeding

After planting, water once to settle the bulb.
Then water sparingly — the bulb should not sit in wet compost.

Place the pot in a warm spot (20–24°C) with bright but indirect light.
Soon, the flower stem will begin to appear.

Once active growth starts, increase watering. Turn the pot occasionally so the stem grows straight toward the light.

When the flower bud is formed, start feeding with a potassium-rich fertilizer (NPK 5–10–10).
Continue feeding while the leaves remain green.

This post-flowering period is crucial — it allows the bulb to store energy for the next season.

Rest Period

After flowering, cut off the wilted bloom only.
Leave the stem and leaves — they continue to feed the bulb.
Cut the stem near the neck only when it turns yellow, so all nutrients return to the bulb.

The leaves usually last until late summer.
When they start to yellow naturally, the bulb is ready for rest.
If they haven’t died back by late summer, cut them to about 10 cm above the bulb — this helps trigger dormancy.

Store the bulb in a cool, dry, dark place (10–15°C) during this resting period.
Do not repot — leave it in the same pot until autumn, when you can begin watering again to start the next bloom cycle.

Can You Cut the Flower for a Vase?

Yes! A Hippeastrum flower stem lasts beautifully in a vase for up to 10 days.
Cut the stem at the base, place it in clean water, and change the water every few days.
Cutting the flower stem does not harm the bulb in any way.

How Long Can a Bulb Live?

With proper care and yearly rest, one Hippeastrum bulb can live and bloom beautifully for 10–15 years — sometimes even longer!

Amaryllis or Hippeastrum — What’s the Difference?

Most of the flowers sold in stores under the name Amaryllis are actually Hippeastrum.
They belong to the same plant family (Amaryllidaceae), which is why the name “amaryllis” has been widely used in everyday language — even by botanists and growers.

Amaryllis belladonna — the true Amaryllis — grows in South Africa.
Hippeastrum reginae — the Hippeastrum we know as a potted plant with large, trumpet-shaped flowers — originates from South America and blooms during the winter months.

Planting Bulbs in Pots

Fri, 22 Aug 2025 17:01:00 +0000

Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses, grape hyacinths, and other autumn-planted bulbs also thrive in pots and containers. Planting bulbs in pots allows you to enjoy a colorful spring display on a terrace, balcony, at the front door, or even indoors on a table. To ensure bulbs grow and bloom well in pots, it’s important to follow a few guidelines.

Choosing a pot. Select a pot with drainage holes at the bottom. If you plan to plant in several layers (“lasagna” method), choose a deeper pot so the bulbs can develop properly. For a single layer, a shallower container is also suitable.

Drainage. Add a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot—clay pebbles, gravel, or small stones. This prevents waterlogging and reduces the risk of bulbs rotting.

Soil. Use light, well-draining soil—mix garden soil with sand and compost. Heavy, clay soil is not suitable, as it retains too much moisture. It is recommended to add fertilizer—either well-rotted manure or a slow-release fertilizer with a low nitrogen (N) content. This way, no additional feeding will be needed in spring. If no fertilizer was added at planting in autumn, you can use a general liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the spring growing season.

Planting. Bulbs can be planted in a single layer or in several layers (“lasagna” method). The effect is more impressive if bulbs are planted closely together, as flowering will be denser.

First layer. Place the largest bulbs—tulips, daffodils—close together (1–2 cm apart). Cover with about 5 cm (2") of soil.
Second layer. Add another set of tulips or daffodils (a different variety if you like). Leave 2–3 cm of space between bulbs so shoots from lower layers can grow through. Cover with soil.
Third layer. On top, plant smaller bulbs such as crocuses or grape hyacinths, which bloom early in spring. Cover with 7–10 cm (3–4") of soil.

After planting, water thoroughly. You can also add a layer of mulch, which helps retain moisture and protects against temperature fluctuations.

Where to keep pots in winter. Do not leave pots unprotected outdoors, as bulbs can easily freeze. You can either:

keep them in a cool, frost-free place (0…+5 °C), such as an unheated garage, or
bury the pots in the ground and cover with mulch.

Spring. Once shoots begin to appear, pots can be brought outside. If they were kept indoors, move them out once days are mild and nights are frost-free. Keep the soil evenly moist (not waterlogged) so it doesn’t dry out, and soon you’ll enjoy a rich spring bloom.

Tulip Growing Tips

Fri, 22 Aug 2025 16:48:00 +0000

Most tulips you see planted in landscapes or sold as cut flowers in shops are hybrid tulips. Hybrids usually need to be lifted and replanted each year to achieve the best display. There are also perennial tulips, genetically closer to their wild ancestors. These will return year after year and may even multiply. They are shorter than hybrids, with smaller blooms and more pointed petals.

When to plant. The best time to plant tulips is in autumn, from mid-October until December. Nature often shows us the right moment: when tree leaves have turned color and begin to fall, it’s time to plant tulips. It’s better to plant later than too early, as the soil needs to be cool enough. Ideally, soil temperature should stay at 9 °C or lower for a couple of weeks.

Site and soil. Tulips need a sunny, sheltered spot. For best results, make sure they get at least 6 hours of direct sun in spring. The soil should be well-drained and not heavy clay. Improve it with compost, humus, or well-rotted manure. Tulips grow best in neutral to slightly alkaline soil with a pH of 6.0–7.0.

Planting. Bulbs are planted 3–4 bulb depths deep, about 10–15 cm. In light, sandy soils plant deeper (around 15 cm), in heavier soils slightly shallower (around 10 cm). Space bulbs about 10 cm apart. Water well after planting. Tulips can be planted directly in beds, in special bulb baskets, or even grown in pots.

Care. If the soil is dry, water regularly. Stop watering in winter and resume in spring. If the soil was enriched with fertilizer during autumn planting, no further feeding is needed. Otherwise, feed in spring several times: when shoots appear, at bud formation, and during flowering. The best fertilizer is one rich in potassium and phosphorus, with only minimal nitrogen.

Pests and diseases. Tulips can be affected by diseases and pests, most commonly grey mold (Botrytis), which develops in overly wet soil. Choosing a well-drained site is the best prevention.

Lifting and storage. Once flowers fade, remove the heads so seed formation does not weaken the bulb. When foliage has completely withered (usually late June to early July), lift the bulbs. Spread them on paper in a dry, airy room to cure for a few days. Then store in a thin layer in cardboard boxes, in a cool, dry place. Protect from mice and rats.